Pero: Thank you very much. But then, as Yugoslavia fell apart in the 1990s, Mostar itself became embroiled in war. So this is what I find in my, on top of my house. He continues his travels under a … The ruins themselves are now integrated with the city's street plan, so exploring them is free — except for the cellars and the cathedral sights/temple, which you'll pay to enter. This is supposedly where Bill Gates hangs out when he visits Dubrovnik. The faithful squeeze into the very tight space behind the altar, where a hole in the back of the structure lets them reach through and touch the original reef where the icon was found. think 16 LIFE 11/07 02:00: A fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe, Croatia is emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. Humble and anonymous, she had faith that her work was worthwhile and would be appreciated — as it is, two centuries later, by a steady parade of travelers from distant lands. Rick: So you've got the secular power, the religious power, and the people respecting the power. Lenni and Pero Modrinić, both of whom are outgoing and speak good English, rent four apartments in a nicely renovated house right in the middle of the Old Town, a fifth apartment next door with two bedrooms and a sea view, and a small, budget double with a private bathroom across the hall. The national parliament building flies both the Croatian and European flags. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. And, as a believer and as a priest, I would say that the real Serb is an Orthodox Christian Serb. It was a park, before war, where lovers gather, children gather, and sitting here have a nice time. Expertly enjoying this town, seemingly made for relaxing, yachters stern-tie into the good life. From this remarkably preserved medieval fortress city, we venture into less-touristed corners of the former Yugoslavia. So we can better understand this troubled union, I'm joined by my friend and co-author of my guidebook to this region, Cameron Hewitt. 2. Tucked among a clutter of nautical artifacts is a delicate treasure. When the seats fill up — as often happens around sunset — you can order a drink at the bar and walk down the stairs to enjoy it “on the rocks”...literally. Because this is a baptistery, here we have a statue of St. John the Baptist. And balkanization, as you mentioned, is something that has to be slowly overcome. It's a country of contrasts: an intriguing combination of rugged landscapes, communist-era decrepitude, and an emerging Mediterranean hotspot that's quite popular with the cruising crowd. A grand Orthodox church caps a hill high above Trebinje. As you meander along this lofty perch — with a sea of orange roofs on one side and the azure sea on the other — you'll get your bearings, peer into secluded gardens, and snap pictures like mad of the ever-changing views. Two of those exploded. 1. Rick explores Roman hot springs, cruises quiet canals, marvels at England's finest Gothic church, and gets a surprising dose of Viking history. This embroidery was a labor of love created by a local woman. Till next time, keep on travelin'. They pained in a figurative way, while the rest of the art world was embracing an increasingly abstract style [snort]. Congratu — the quality — the craftsmanship — is just beautiful here. You see a lot of winter scenes because these artists were farmers first...busy tending their fields through the growing season. The main drag leading up to the top of the island is lined with art galleries. Rick: When I come to this church as a western Christian, it feels very eastern. Scaling the church bell tower's creaky wooden stairway requires an enduring faith in the reliability of wood. These roofs were rebuilt using the same materials as the original ones. The church that crowns Rovinj is dedicated to the fourth-century martyr St. Euphemia; her statue functions as a weather vane. Our Croatian finale: the Istrian Peninsula and its enchanting port town of Rovinj. The "old road" — little more than an overgrown donkey path — was once the mountain kingdom's umbilical cord to the Adriatic. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. RICK STEVES' EUROPE offers a fresh perspective on the best travel advice, including where to stay, what to see and how to get around in Europe. 9. And the pebbly beaches with crystal-clear water are both pristine and inviting. If you want to enjoy the Croatian café scene, it helps to know a few words. Tucked inside Zagreb's only surviving town gate is an evocative chapel. Thank God, my family was OK, but many of my friends have been killed here. 6. The poignant Memorial Room of Dubrovnik Defenders has photos of dozens of people from Dubrovnik who were killed fighting Yugoslav forces in 1991 (free, long hours daily in peak season). For most visitors, the walk in my guidebook provides enough details; for more in-depth information, you could join a walking tour or hire a guide. We're visiting three of them: Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Boats glide visitors into the heart of the park. Medieval York and Georgian Bath pack an exciting pair of sightseeing punches. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. think 16 LIFE 11/06 20:00: A fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe, Croatia is emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. But solutions are emerging. While travel in the Balkans has its challenges, it's also deeply rewarding. Episode List. Pero: Well, it was a very difficult time. The island of Hvar was settled and named by the Greeks in the fourth century B.C. 3. Why is that? Stroll the back lanes, where you may come upon a musical surprise. So, I took some loans from the bank, and I decided to rent it, like a guesthouse. Generalić, shown here in a self-portrait, was the father of the Croatian Naive Art movement. After a splash of Adriatic resort life, we sail a Montenegrin fjord, and share the rewards of peace in Bosnia. Strolling locals finish their days in good style...just enjoying life's simple pleasures in a city made friendly for its residents. At the Venetian-flavored seafront town of Perast, locals ferry visitors out to a manmade island that comes with a fascinating story. At first, Trebinje felt a bit inaccessible — quite different from my hometown. Because this is Dubrovnik's top attraction, it's usually extremely crowded. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. And in Bosnia, we visit Mostar — war-torn in the '90s, but bursting with promise today. Seeing the city buzz with activity, you feel the energy of urban Croatia. Through all those centuries, the Republic of Dubrovnik invested mightily to withstand any siege. think 16 AGAIN 11/21 12:30: A fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe, Croatia is emerging as one of Europe's top destinations. While newly painted, the medieval feel of the church is a reminder that the Eastern Orthodox faith steadfastly carries on the earliest traditions of Christianity in a modern world. In 1991, after Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia, the Yugoslav army shelled the city, damaging about two-thirds of its buildings. Because it offered safe harbor from both pirates and the plague, Rovinj became extremely crowded. see our FAQ. Rick: Pero, tell me about the war here in Dubrovnik. TV-G | 26min | Documentary, Biography, History | Episode aired 2000 Season 1 | Episode 12. There's nothing like this lush valley of 16 terraced lakes, laced together by waterfalls, boat rides, and miles of pleasant plank walks. Sampling the very best of Croatia, we start by exploring the fabled Dalmatian Coast from dramatic Dubrovnik to crusty Adriatic island ports. People, young and old, passing through, stop here briefly to worship. 8. Diocletian was notorious for persecuting Christians. Alma: This is a very special place for us. Hvala! And during the shelling, they sent us a million grenades and bullets — we have to stop, we have to find a shelter to protect us and our families. Rick: There you go. Rate. Dubrovnik, Croatia - Video - Rick Steves' Europe While its ethnic make-up shaped its recent history, the differences between its groups can be subtle and confusing. Maya: That would be it. Orah. We're setting sail again. Every town has their all-male klapa choir. So, that's something that has to do with our genes, with our families, with our background. Facades recall its 14th-century trading heyday. During busy times, your best bet is to hit the walls around 8:00, or just before 17:00 (to avoid both the worst heat and the worst crowds). The Balkans — that troubled southeastern corner of Europe — is complex and relatively untouristed. And little girls love a visit to the snack shack. Exploring Croatia, we'll see the Pearl of the Adriatic, sample some island charm, wander Roman ruins, and hike through a watery wonderland. The country of Yugoslavia lasted roughly from the end of World War I until the 1990s. And here, Eastern Orthodoxy is the biggest Christian community. They painted in a figurative way, while the rest of the artistic world embraced, increasingly, an abstract style. Our next stop: the capital city, Zagreb. The walls are busiest from about 9:00 until 11:00, when the cruise ships are docked. Rick: Very nice. Montenegro, where towering mountains meet the Adriatic, is both scenic and humble. We'll enjoy its thriving capital city, the Italian-like charm of Istria, and that peninsula's enchanting port town. Rick: Thank you! As always, travel humanizes a distant land. [While] so many Dalmatian Coast towns feel tailor-made for tourism, Split is a serious port. I called ahead and my hosts, Lenni and Peter, met me at the boat. This charming collection features lyrical landscapes and village scenes painted in the mid-20th century by self-taught peasant artists. Rate. Rick: One last question: What's this ostrich egg? Dubrovnik's single best attraction is strolling the scenic mile-and-a-quarter around the city walls. The Making of Rick Steves' Europe. Today, as the new tiles are fading, so are the scars of that war. Maya: This is the grand entryway towards Diocletian's private area, private quarters. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Croatia. Rick: No souvenir, eat it, OK? 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